When Your Vendor Asks: Denim or Modal?
I'm an office administrator for a mid-sized fashion brand—about 200 people across design, production, and sales. I manage all fabric ordering, roughly $400K annually across 8 vendors. When I took over purchasing in 2022, I inherited a spreadsheet that lumped everything together: Candiani selvedge denim, modal jersey, supima cotton, even some glass mesh samples nobody remembered ordering. It was a mess.
One question kept popping up from our design team: 'Should we use Candiani denim or modal fabric for this capsule collection?' At first, I assumed denim was always the premium choice. But after digging into specs, costs, and supply chain quirks, I realized the comparison isn't that simple.
Here's what I've learned comparing Candiani denim (specifically their selvedge and sustainable lines) against modal fabric—what it is, where it's made, and whether it's worth the hype.
What Are We Comparing?
Let me set the stage. On one side: Candiani denim, made in Milan, Italy. They're known for selvedge denim, sustainable production (they recycle water, use organic cotton, and hold certifications like GOTS and Bluesign), and a heritage that dates back to 1938. On the other side: modal fabric, a semi-synthetic fiber made from beech tree pulp. It's often used for jersey, loungewear, and blends. The big question: 'What is modal fabric is it plastic?' — I'll answer that.
I'm comparing them across three dimensions: sustainability, durability & performance, and cost & supply chain. Why these three? Because in my experience, these are what designers and finance actually fight over.
Sustainability: Candiani's Claim vs. Modal's Reputation
Let's start with the hot topic. Candiani positions itself as a leader in sustainable denim. They've got certifications coming out of their ears: GOTS, Bluesign, Oeko-Tex, and their own 'Regenerative' line that uses regenerative cotton. They also have a water recycling system that reuses 95% of water in production. I don't have hard data on whether that 95% figure is industry-leading or table stakes for premium mills, but based on our orders and supplier audits, it's better than most Asian mills we've tried.
Modal, on the other hand, gets a mixed report card. People ask, 'what is modal fabric is it plastic?' The short answer: no, it's not plastic. Modal is made from cellulose (beech tree pulp), so it's a natural fiber at its core. But the process to turn wood into silky fabric uses chemicals. That said, most modal today is produced under strict environmental standards—Lenzing's Modal (which is common in our orders) is certified biodegradable and uses a closed-loop production system.
The 'history' part I found interesting: people assume modal is synthetic because it's soft and stretchy. This was true maybe 20 years ago, when early modal versions had more chemical residue. Today, premium modal is quite eco-friendly—comparable to Tencel.
Bottom line on sustainability: Candiani wins on transparency and heritage, but modal isn't the villain people think. If you're building a '100% natural' story, go with Candiani. If you need a soft, eco-friendly alternative that's not plastic, modal works fine.
Durability & Performance: Jeans vs. Jersey
Here's where the comparison gets practical. Candiani selvedge denim is built to last. I've seen samples that have been washed 50 times and still look like new—that's the famous selvedge edge that resists fraying. For our clients who want premium jeans that age well, it's the go-to.
Modal fabric? It's soft, breathable, and drapes beautifully. But durability? Not its strong suit. Modal tends to pill after multiple washes, especially if it's lower quality. I've had designers complain that modal jersey tops look tired after 10-15 wears. However, when blended with cotton (like supima cotton jersey), it holds up better.
People often confuse this: they think 'modal is plastic' means it's durable. Actually, plastic-based synthetics like polyester are durable; modal is more delicate. It's best for loungewear, not heavy-use items.
Performance verdict: Candiani denim for rugged, long-lasting pieces; modal for comfort-focused, lower-wear items. You wouldn't make jeans out of modal, and you wouldn't make a t-shirt out of selvedge denim—unless it's an art project.
Cost & Supply Chain: Italian vs. Global
Candiani is Italian, and that comes with a price tag. A yard of their selvedge denim can cost $18-$25 depending on the finish. Add shipping from Italy, and you're looking at $22-28. Good luck getting that under $20 unless you're ordering bulk.
Modal is cheaper—typically $8-12 per yard for standard quality, and that includes shipping from Asia (most modal comes from China or Austria). But here's the catch: modal supply chains are less transparent. I wish I had tracked the number of times we got modal shipments that were labeled '100% modal' but had traces of polyester (answered: 'what is modal fabric is it plastic?' — sometimes yes, if it's blended without disclosure). Verify your supplier's certifications.
Cost verdict: Modal wins on price, but Candiani wins on supply chain reliability and trust. For us, it depends on the project: high-margin designer collection? Candiani. Basics for staff uniforms? Modal.
So Which Should You Choose?
I'm not going to tell you one is 'better.' It depends on your use case:
- Go with Candiani denim if: You're making premium denim, want a story to tell (Italian heritage, sustainability), and your customers value longevity. Also, if you care about where your fabric comes from—Candiani is a known name.
- Go with modal if: You need soft, breathable fabrics for loungewear, activewear, or seasonal items. It's cheaper, but vet your supplier for purity (no hidden synthetics).
- Consider blending: For our capsule collection, we ended up using Candiani for the jeans and a modal-cotton blend for the matching tops. Best of both worlds.
One last thing: if you're asking 'what is modal fabric is it plastic?' — no, it's not. But check the label. Some modal blends include synthetic fibers for stretch, so don't assume it's always natural. An informed buyer is a happy buyer.